Rating the rota
One man's opinionated guide to British Open courses
By STEVE EUBANKS
Contributing writer, GOLF MAGAZINE
Every summer golf fans are treated to the game at its rawest, as the best players in the world take on the best linksland courses of England and Scotland for the British Open. The eight courses that form the current rota don't serve just as tournament sites. They're also accessible to tourists, so American golfers of all ages and skill levels cross the pond to test themselves on these ancient plots. Many have no idea what to expect because the courses are so different from those they play at home.
These rota ratings will help you understand what's in store when you make that dream golf trip -- or if you're just watching the Open Championship on the tube.
- The Old Course
- Royal St. George's
- Royal Birkdale
- Royal Lytham & St. Annes
- Royal Troon
- Turnberry
- Muirfield
- Carnoustie
The Old Course
St. Andrews, Scotland
For golfers, the village of St. Andrews is Mecca and Disney World in one. There are six courses in the village, and 10 more within a short drive, but the main attraction is the Old Course. The atmosphere and history of both the course and the surroundings make you forget the squirrelly bounces and what-the-heck-is-that-doing-there bunkers. Every golfer should make the pilgrimage at least once.
FOR THE PROS
(Next Open: 2005) Driving ***(out of four stars)
Lulls players into a false sense of security, but when the wind picks up, placement off the tee is paramount.
Greens ****
The models for Augusta National and countless other courses around the world. They are normally firm, usually fair, and always difficult.
Bunkers ****
They all have names, and they're unlike any in the world. The best strategy is to miss them altogether, like Tiger Woods in 2000.
Precision **
An off-line shot will land somewhere on the double greens. Unfortunately, it will leave a 100-foot putt.
Likelihood of an upset*
Not bloody likely. The list of champions at St. Andrews reads like a who's who of golf history.
FOR THE REST OF US
Fairness *
One of the least fair courses in golf, but who cares? It's St. Andrews.
Fun ****
Few places send chills down a jaded golfer's spine. The first tee and the Swilcan Bridge are two of them.
Chances of good scores by Americans **
It seems easy until you add up the numbers to find you're five shots over your handicap.
Scenery ****
The village, Rusack's Hotel, the R&A clubhouse, and the Firth of Tay fill you with a sense of history and tradition.
Hospitality ****
It's a college town with plenty of local hangouts.
Caddies ****
You may well find your caddie-by-day holding court in the evening at the Dunvegan Hotel pub.
Overall Experience ****
Bordering on religious.
Royal St George's
Sandwich, England
The southernmost course on the rota -- about an hour's drive south of London Gatwick Airport -- St George's is everything you expect from a links course, including more than a few holes where it's tough to see where you're supposed to go. Don't expect to play well the first few times you see it, and don't figure on making it through a round without a screwy bounce.
FOR THE PROS
(Next Open: 2003) Driving ***
New tees will put driver in players' hands a bit more often.
Greens *
Now we know what inspired Pete Dye's sadistic streak.
Bunkers ***
Fair and in the right places.
Precision *
Patience is key; everybody gets bad hops on this one.
LIKELIHOOD OF AN UPSET **
1993 champion Greg Norman cancels out 1981 winner Bill Rogers.
FOR THE REST OF US
Fairness *
You'll be pulling out your hair by the 5th hole.
Fun ***
Once you've resigned yourself to the unfairness, it's an interesting track.
CHANCES OF GOOD SCORES BY AMERICANS *
The first time you play it you'll want to burn the scorecard. Subsequent rounds should be better.
Scenery **
No views of water, but plenty of good-looking holes.
Hospitality **
Jacket and tie are required in the clubhouse, but there are friendly members and a good pub. Sandwich and nearby Deal are replete with local color.
Caddies **
Young, local, and more interested in their own games than in helping you.
Overall Experience **
Worth a day trip out of London, but not an overseas flight.
Southport, England
Here's your chance to post a decent score. If you hit it on the closely mown grass, which is generous, you will have a shot you probably recognize. If you hit it in the rough, just get it back in play, take your medicine, and move along. Davis Love III shot 30 on the front nine in 1991, hit his tee shot in the rough on the 10th, and took a quadruple bogey. It's that kind of course.
FOR THE PROS
Driving ***
Accuracy is more important than distance.
Greens ***
Subtle but true -- no surprises. Good putters play well here.
Bunkers ***
Fair and more Florida-like than any other course on the rota.
Precision ***
Imperative. There's plenty of room, but greed is a deadly sin.
Likelihood of an upset ***
Last two winners were Mark O'Meara (1998) and Ian Baker-Finch (1991).
FOR THE REST OF US
Fairness ***
It's right in front of you. If you hit it in a bad spot, it's your fault.
Fun ***
A surprisingly good time in a dreary little area of Northern England.
Chances of good scores by Americans ****
The most American-friendly course on the rota. Even in the wind, you have a good shot at a decent score.
Scenery ***
Few ocean views, but the gigantic dunes give the course a unique look.
Hospitality *
Post-round options are bleak and bleaker.
Caddies **
If your guy weren't looping twice a day he'd be running a lathe.
Overall Experience ***
Very good golf. Not much else.
Lytham St. Annes, England
The least linksy of the rota courses, Lytham & St. Annes is about a mile from the ocean, in the middle of the village of St. Annes. You can be a block away from the course and have no idea it's there. Once you find it, though, you're in for a treat. Deep, tough bunkers make it one of the most difficult tests in Britain. Four world-class closing holes will beat you up more often than not.
FOR THE PROS
Driving **
At 6,905 yards, it's nothing like the behemoths facing Tour players today; the driver often stays in the bag.
Greens ***
Tough to hit and hold. If the USGA were in charge, the pins would be in some spots making the course almost unplayable.
Bunkers ****
The toughest on the rota. Deep, severe, and exactly where the eye tells you to hit it.
Precision ***
Great iron players win here.
Likelihood of an upset**
Bob Charles (1963) was a surprise, but the rest of the winners have been among the best at the time.
FOR THE REST OF US
Fairness **
A couple of bad hops are inevitable, and there are some holes where the best play is to hit it in the rough.
Fun *
After leaving it in the same bunker three times, you'll wonder why you came.
Chances of good scores by Americans **
If the wind doesn't blow, you have a chance.
Scenery *
Views of railroad tracks and public-housing projects.
Hospitality ***
Members couldn't be more accommodating. If you don't play well, they're likely to take you into town for a pint and sympathy.
Caddies **
Less colorful than Scottish loopers, but knowledgeable and friendly.
Overall Experience **
Nearby Blackpool is the Branson, Missouri, of Northern England, so if the golf is bad there's carnival entertainment -- if that's your thing.
It has the longest and shortest holes on the rota and it's two separate golf courses: an ego-boosting front nine and a back nine as tough as you'll ever play. Tom Watson once took some friends to Troon and watched all three of them break 40 on the front and fail to break 50 coming in.
FOR THE PROS
(Next Open: 2004) Driving ***
Solid driving is needed on the back nine, especially into the wind.
Greens ***
Tough but fair. It's critical to be on the correct side of the hole, especially on the inward half.
Bunkers ***
The greenside bunkers on the par-3 8th (the Postage Stamp) can make the best in the world look silly. Don't forget Greg Norman's drive into the fairway bunker on 18 that cost him the championship in 1989.
Precision ***
Justin Leonard, a straight hitter who's not so long, won the last Open here in 1997.
Likelihood of an upset ***
Mark Calcavecchia (1989) and Leonard claimed their only majors at Troon.
FOR THE REST OF US
Fairness ***
No hidden disasters, and relatively few funky hops.
Fun **
If you can tolerate seeing a career round on the front nine go down in flames by the 13th tee, there is fun to be had.
Chances of good scores by Americans **
Four jugs for the front nine, one for the back.
Scenery **
Nice views of the Irish Sea and the giant, granite outcropping, Ailsa Craig, in the distance. The 10th green abuts historic Prestwick -- and a trailer park.
Hospitality ***
Best post-round bowl of soup in Scotland, but not much of a town for afterward.
Caddies ***
Great local color and plenty of sage advice.
Overall Experience ***
A round you'll remember for a long time, especially if you're able to handle the back nine.
The most visually arresting links on the Open rota, the Ailsa course at Turnberry has the headland look of Pebble Beach and a links flair that resembles Irish courses like Portmarnock and Lahinch. It also has the best hotel on the rota. Turnberry Hotel provides great views of the course and the Irish Sea.
FOR THE PROS
Driving ***
There are some holes that demand straight and long drives; others just require straight.
Greens **
Spongy and slow at times -- typical on Scotland's wetter west coast -- but always true. Good putters make the adjustment. Bad putters complain.
Bunkers ***
Some are foxholes and bomb craters from World War II, when the Royal Air Force used the land occupied by the course as a makeshift airfield.
Precision ***
Controlling trajectory is key to scoring well. Players who have only one shot will have a hard time.
Likelihood of an upset *
Home of arguably the best duel in history -- between Tom Watson and Jack Nicklaus in 1977.
FOR THE REST OF US
Fairness ***
Not much you can't see. The gorse is thick and the rough is thicker, but neither matters if you keep it in play.
Fun ****
You could play it every day and never grow tired of it.
Chances of good scores by Americans **
From the tips, it's a toughy. It's no bargain from the regular tees, either.
Scenery ****
The best in Scotland: The lighthouse and crashing waves beside the 11th tee make you want to camp out for a while.
Hospitality **
The hotel is fantastic, but there is no town.
Caddies ***
Some of the best, just what you'd expect: always quick of wit.
Overall Experience ****
Don't miss this one.
Pros rave about the quality and fairness of the course, with good reason. As links golf goes, it's the fairest you'll find. Driver can be used on most long holes if you chooose, but errant shots are penalized. Because the course is routed in a circle insted of the out-and-back style of St. Andrews, the wind comes at you from every direction.
The real difficulty may be getting on; Muirfield's exclusivity is legendary. You need a handicap of 18 or less and a letter from a "recognized" club, and the wait can extend more than a year. (If you're a woman, forget it.) But it's well worth the trouble.
FOR THE PROS
Driving ***
Not long, but there's a decision on every tee. Being more aggressive brings greater reward -- and risk.
Greens ***
Firm and fair. Not usually as fast as some of the others on the east coast of Scotland, but consistent.
Bunkers ***
They're where they are supposed to be, and the penalty for finding them is appropriate.
Precision ****
A thinking man's course, which is why Jack Nicklaus and Nick Faldo love it so much.
Likelihood of an upset *
Muirfield always produces quality champions.
FOR THE REST OF US
Fairness ****
As far as golf is meant to be fair, this one fills the bill.
Fun ****
You'll remember every shot and every hole.
Chances of good scores by Americans ***
It's fair, but not easy. When the weather blows in, your career worst round can come into play. (Just ask Tiger about last year.)
Scenery ***
Not many views of the Firth of Forth, but the hill section of Gullane is both picturesque and architecturally fascinating.
Hospitality **
The club members can be the snootiest old codgers you've ever met, but the townspeople are wonderful.
Caddies ***
Most have been here forever, and they know every nook and cranny.
Overall Experience ****
Worth the hassle and wait.
Carnoustie, Scotland
Tough and industrial like the town it sits in and its citizens. On a calm day, Carnoustie is the hardest course in Great Britain. On a windy day, it's the hardest course in the world. The setup for the 1999 Open was extreme, but even with no rough the course is as tough as they come.
FOR THE PROS
Driving ****
Can only play this one from the fairway. Because difficult holes run in every direction, the wind is never to your advantage.
Greens ***
Not the most undulating on the rota, but tough enough, especially when the wind blows.
Bunkers **
Pros can can get out of them, but not always much closer to the hole.
Precision ***
Guys who can work their long irons in both directions, with at least three trajectories, should have no problem.
Likelihood of an upset ***
Remember who won in 1999? All we recall is that Jean Van de Velde didn't. Even Tom Watson (1975) was a surprise when he won at age 25.
FOR THE REST OF US
Fairness **
At least five good shots will turn out bad.
Fun **
If you're a masochist, add two jugs.
Chances of good scores by Americans *
Don't feel bad; it's tough for the locals, too.
Scenery *
Carnoustie is the Cleveland of Scotland. Not a lot to look at.
Hospitality**
The new hotel is first-class, and you're likely to be the only person in it.
Caddies ***
Tough and grim faced. You need to heed their advice on every shot.
Overall Experience **
A great addition to an east coast tour, but not one you would go out of your way to play by itself, unless you're in it for the challenge
Steve Eubanks is an Atlanta-based ex-pro who has written several books about golf.
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